Why Pigs Need a Shelter
Researching and implementing the best fence for pigs, what to feed our pigs, and how to butcher pigs were obvious steps in growing our pig herd. There are also other aspects of raising pigs to consider.
Unfortunately, pregnant sows can become territorial and aggressive. After the babies are born, this intensity can turn up a notch. Sometimes, the mamas will even hurt each other’s babies.
We have found the best way to combat this is to have multiple pig shelters when farrowing pigs. The pigs will naturally “nest” in separate areas and protect their babies from the other pigs.
Along with protecting our pregnant sows and babies, we want to make sure our pigs have shelter from the weather. Pigs need protection from heat, cold, and all other weather systems. This DIY pig shelter was the obvious solution.
Basics of a Pig Shelter
Pigs need a place to get inside out of the weather. While they love to root and roll in the mud, they also need a dry place to protect them from weather systems. Pigs are quick to develop pneumonia if exposed to drafty, cold conditions.
A dry, well-ventilated area is key to protecting your pigs and keeping them healthy. Also, if your shelter is large enough, inside the shelter is an ideal location to place a pig feeder. The food will stay dry, and the pigs will have easy access.
Design Aspects of a Pig Shelter
We chose to build our DIY pig shelter 12’x15’. We wanted ours to be large enough to protect our pigs and still be suitable for other farm animals. On our farm, multi-purpose equipment is key!
Since we wanted our shelter to be portable, we built it without a floor. We will spread some straw in winter for extra protection and warmth. The best shelter is the one that suits your specific pig herd, farm, and climate.
Pro-Tip: Build the shelter facing away from the wind force. We built ours facing east. This allows for sunshine in the morning and shade on hot summer afternoons.
Supplies Needed
- Saw – An electrical circular saw works best.
- Measuring Tape – Measure twice, cut once!
- Impact Driver – An impact driver makes the job a lot easier.
- Deck Screws – Make sure the deck screws are compatible with treated wood.
- Lumber – Refer to the cut list below for specific wood sizes.
- Pre-Cut Metal Sheets – Cutting large sheets of metal can be a challenge. A better option is to go to your local supplier with the measurements of your building and have the sheets pre-cut.
- Metal Trim – This is optional but finishes off the pig shelter. You’ll need several pieces to finish the outside roof edges.
- Gutter – A gutter placed on the back edge is optional. We hope to collect rainwater and direct it into drinking water for the pigs.
- Roofing Screws – Use roofing screws to secure all metal pieces.
- T-Posts – I used two T-Posts to anchor the building.
- Baling Wire – Use baling wire to tighten and secure the T-Posts to the building frame.
- Post Driver – Used to drive the T-Posts into the ground.
- Grinder – A grinder with a metal cut-off blade is the best tool to cut metal trim pieces. Another option is tin snips, but getting a straight cut is difficult.
- Safety Glasses – Safety first! Use them when cutting metal pieces because the grinder throws metal.
Cut List
- Corner Posts – treated wood
- 2 Front – 4”x4″x7′
- 3 Back – 4”x4″x6′ spaced at 7.5′ apart
- Bottom Band Board – treated wood
- Rear – 2″x8″x15′
- Sides – 2”x8”x12′, cut 2 sides
- Front – 2”x4”x15’
- Rafters – treated wood 2″x4″x15′, cut 7 rafters
- Wall Purlins – 2″x4″x12′ and placed every 24″ on center, cut 11 purlins
How to Build a DIY Pig Shelter
The finished building will be 12’x15’ with a 2” metal overhang on the back for a gutter. It will be built 7’ tall in the front and sloping towards the back to a height of 6’.
- Measure and cut all lumber pieces to the appropriate cut list recommendations.
- Assemble the bottom band board (base frame) in your location of choice.
- Place the 7’ corner posts in each front corner and attach them with the impact driver and deck screws.
- Place the 6’ corner posts in each back corner and one in the rear center and attach them with the impact driver and deck screws.
- Screw the top frame pieces into position using the wall purlins. Place two at the top side edges running from 7’ to 6’.
- Attach remaining wall purlins every 24” on center.
- Attach one rafter length in the center running the 12’ length.
- Attach the remaining six rafters running the 15’ length.
- Place metal pieces one at a time and screw them down using the metal screws. I did the sides first and the roof last. My roof metal was cut at 12’ 7” with an overhang to attach the trim.
- Finish off the rough edges with metal trim if desired. Pro-Tip: If using the grinder to cut the trim, please wear your safety glasses.
- Install the gutter for the rainwater collection system (optional).
- If you want to anchor the building to protect against high winds, drive in T-Posts using the post driver (one in front and one at the opposite back corner) and attach them with baling wire.
And that’s it! A shelter doesn’t have to be difficult to build. And when you try to consider all the other uses this structure could have, you’ll probably realize keeping it simple and moveable is the best choice.
