Why We Compost on a Large Scale
You can compost on a small or large scale. We use the vermicomposting method, but this small-scale composting does not consume all of the organic waste that our farm produces. For this reason, we also use large-scale composting to make use of all the resources our farm provides.
Composting this way means we don’t have to haul our excess matter to the dump. We have a high volume of leftover organic material on the farm, and family and neighbors can also dump their material on our site.
Because compost is highly nutrient, we use it to build up our raised beds and flowerbeds with extra soil. We test the soil and amend our garden soil with compost wherever nutrient depletion occurs. We also spread extra compost on our lawns and pastures as a fertilizer.
What Is Composting
Composting is letting organic materials like yard, home and barn waste decompose into dark, fertile soil. Microorganisms, like bacteria and fungi, break down the material. Farmers often refer to compost as “black gold” because it is dark and full of nutrients.
Large-scale composting becomes easier when operating an active farm or homestead because you can throw so many excess organic materials into large piles. Organic material can come from hay, manure, pasture and yard trimmings, and kitchen scraps.
What Goes Into a Compost Pile
We put all our organic matter from around the farm into our large composting pile. Organic material is anything that was alive at some point.
- Carbon Material – Carbon materials include leaves, wood, wood ash, tea bags, sawdust, hay, and straw. These are brown materials and act as a bulking agent to structure your pile.
- Nitrogen Material – Nitrogen material is anything harvested green, such as kitchen scraps, lawn clippings, and animal manure. These are green materials and provide the environment the microorganisms need to go to work. Pro-Tip: Don’t use dog, cat or human waste. They contain pathogens that the composting environment can’t properly kill.
- Water – Water keeps the microorganisms in the compost alive and active.
- Oxygen – Microorganisms also need oxygen to break down debris. Turning your piles every few days allows oxygen to get under the material and speeds up the process.
Perfecting the large-scale composting process can be a science. It requires a good balance of ingredients, but it doesn’t have to be overwhelming.
The primary strategy in composting is creating the correct ratios of carbon and nitrogen and having a good mix of materials. A good carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is considered 30:1.
Types of Large-Scale Composting
There are three types of large-scale composting:
- Aerobic Composting – Aerobic composting is our choice of composting. It replicates natural decomposition using organic matter, which you turn every few days. Aerobic composting yields “black gold” faster, using oxygen and microbes to break down organic material.
- Aerated Static Pile – This form of composting uses the principles of aerobic composting. However, instead of turning the pile, the pile is built on ventilation pipes that pump air through the pile.
- Anaerobic Composting – Anaerobic composting takes longer and is often smelly. This process does not use oxygen to break down the material. Many landfills compost in this manner.
- Windrow Composting – A more extensive composting operation, such as commercial composting or other composting facilities, prefers windrow composting. It’s similar to aerobic composting, but the compost piles are long stretched-out piles instead of one big pile. These long piles need machinery to turn correctly.
Temperature
Microorganisms will create heat in your compost pile, allowing for the decomposition of the material. Having the correct ratios of material will allow for heat production in the inner core of your stack. There are hot piles and cold piles.
Pro-Tip: To determine if the temperature is high or low, purchase a compost thermometer and stick it in the middle of the pile.
Hot Piles
Hot piles reach 113°F-160°F. These piles decompose faster and kill weed seeds, parasites, insect eggs, and pathogens. You’ll need to keep the heat evenly distributed throughout the pile by turning often.
Keeping the right amount of oxygen and moisture will help maintain a perfect balance for microorganisms to thrive. High temperatures will kill microorganisms if your pile gets too hot (above 160°F). Hot piles can be ready within four to eight weeks.
Cold Piles
A cold pile reaches temperatures between 70°F-90°F. Surrounding air temperatures control these lower temperatures. If you have a cold pile, it’s best not to put anything with seeds or that can carry a parasite or pathogen into these piles. Cold piles are ready to use in six to twelve months.
Moisture
Moisture is vital to a thriving compost. Microbes need water to survive and do their work. The amount of moisture that a pile has depends on green material and water. The moisture content throughout the pile should be around 40 to 60 percent.
How do you tell how much moisture is in a pile? Put some work gloves on, grab a handful of compost from inside the center of the compost, and squeeze it. When pressing it, about four to five drops of liquid should come out of the handful.
If more drops come out, you have too much moisture; fewer drops indicate that you need to add water and green material.
If the pile has too much water, it could drown the helpful microbes and create an anaerobic pile that will make your compost pile stinky. You’ll need to aerate your pile by turning it and adding more brown material.
If your pile is dry, the microorganisms will slow down the breakdown. You’ll need to add water and/or green materials to the pile.
Turning Benefits
Turning is an important part of aerobic large-scale composting. To turn your compost, you just move the bottom and middle of the pile to the top and the outside of the pile.
In other words, rotate your debris. Turning your pile every four to seven days is a good idea. The main benefits of turning a compost pile are aeration and moisture control.
Aeration
Turning your compost allows for the aeration of the material, adding oxygen to static piles. Aerobic microorganisms need oxygen which enables them to work to break down your compost pile.
Aeration also allows for odor-free decomposition, which we believe is the best compost method.
Moisture Control
Turning your pile also helps control moisture. Turning your pile will mix water and oxygen if some areas are too wet or too dry.
Mixes the Pile
Turning the pile moves the outside debris to the center, exposing the material to higher temperatures and more microorganisms for an even breakdown of your compost pile.
Best Equipment for Large Scale Composting
If you are large-scale composting, I recommend having a tractor to turn your compost pile. It will make composting much easier.
- Tractor – We use our Kubota tractor to turn our pile of compost and add to the pile. Some large-scale composting sites use compost turners specifically manufactured for this purpose.
- Pitchfork or Shovel – If you don’t have a tractor, you can always turn your pile with a pitchfork or shovel and some manpower.
- Wheelbarrow – A wheelbarrow is excellent for transporting your compost wherever you want to spread it and transporting material to your pile.
- Compost Thermometer – Depending on the size of your pile, you will need to purchase a thermometer with a probe long enough to reach the middle of your pile.
Where to Store Your Compost
Having a designated place for large-scale composting is great, especially if you can keep it in a spot that’s convenient to where you’ll be using it (like the garden). This place should have easy access from your barns and home.
You’ll want to have compost sites away from your neighbors and downwind of your home because compost piles can smell if you’re not turning them regularly. Better to be safe than sorry!
Our farm has a pile of compost in the middle of a field under some shade trees and close to the barns. We can drive our tractor or truck right up to it, allowing for easy access for turning and dumping.
