The amount of organic matter produced by feeding the worms that otherwise fills up landfills contributes to a greener environment. Follow this tutorial to learn how vermicomposting in a worm bin can be a low-price project to create nutrient-rich compost to use before and after you plant your garden.
Why We Vermicompost
Our farm in the beautiful Ozark mountains is thriving with various plant and animal life. Vegetable gardens, fruit trees, medicinal herbs and flowers add to the surrounding beauty and our way of life.
Knowing that the average household throws away several pounds of food waste daily inspires us to use ours to help make our farm healthier and greener, ultimately helping the environment.
The idea behind vermicomposting is intriguing because it’s so simple and effective for soil enrichment. We use our barn waste to compost on a large scale, but we recognize that approach isn’t practical for every homestead.
Adding vermicomposting is a great way for those who want to compost on a smaller scale, but it also offers diversity for those who already compost on a larger scale.
We like to learn about and try new ideas to make our farm and family grow healthier and more efficient. Using worm composting bins to make good use of food waste just seemed smart, and it was a fun project for our family.
We taught our kids about decomposition and how feeding the worms scraps from vegetables, fruits, used coffee grounds, and even used tea bags, in turn, gives back to our farm by making castings to improve our soil.
What Is Vermicomposting
There are several species of earthworms; the most common worm used for vermicomposting are red wigglers or redworms (Eisenia fetida). They will roam together closer to the surface of the soil to feed versus burrowing deeper into the soil, seeking space like most earthworms.
Earthworms are both male and female (hermaphrodites), but they still need a partner to produce more offspring. They are so prolific that worm populations can double their community every two to three months under the right conditions.
The clitellum (band around the redworm) develops when they are mature enough to reproduce. Each tiny cocoon they lay will hatch 1- 4 baby worms.
Redworms prefer warmer temperatures between 55°F – 85°F, a moist environment, and adequate space to move.
When the worms consume plenty of organic food waste, castings are the byproduct. The nutrient-rich castings are the waste product (worm manure) that supplements soil for healthier plant growth.
Worm Bin Options
Commercial vermicomposting bins are available online and in farm and garden stores. We use the Hungry Bin and are very impressed with the ease of setup, capacity, and quality. Various sizes of plastic, styrofoam and wooden boxes work just as well.
Pro-Tip: Cedar and redwood have antimicrobial properties that are harmful to the redworm; it’s best not to use them for a worm bin.
The bin should be a manageable size since the worms reproduce quickly. A good size for a worm community to grow comfortably would be 18” wide by 24” long and 12”- 18” deep, with a lid.
The bin you choose must have ventilation holes around the container and on the bottom and top of the lid.
Prevent fruit flies and gnats from infesting the worm bin by placing screen material or mesh cloth on top of the lid. These pesky insects are attracted to decomposing food waste.
Setting up a Worm Bin
Airflow is critical for the worms; keep the bin off the ground so plenty of air flows around and under the vermicomposting bin. 2″x2″ boards underneath the bin will do the job. It also helps with unpleasant odors trapped inside with all the food scraps and castings.
Pro-Tip: Fruit flies, gnats, or ants can be attracted to the food in the bin; a trap purchased from your local hardware store can stop the invasion.
Fill the bin about one-third with shredded newspaper (preferably not colored ink) or shredded cardboard for worm bedding. Cover with an inch of compost (not garden soil) and a little sand over the torn newspaper to help the worms digest the food.
Worm bodies have a 75% – 90% water content. They need their bedding to be moist so they can breathe and not be stressed. Give the bedding sufficient watering; not soggy but still slightly saturated. You should be able to squeeze a handful of the bedding and get one or two drops of water, but not so much that it’s dripping everywhere. Think of a kitchen sponge that’s been wrung out.
Pro Tip: Keep a tray under the bin to catch any liquid and use it to water your garden or houseplants.
The time has come to add the worms. You can get them online; we purchased 1,000, which was a good amount for our size bin. We found that one pound of food waste per day required two pounds of worms to consume it. There are about 1,000 worms per pound on average.
Pro-Tip: Weigh a week’s worth of food scraps for your family to figure out how many pounds of worms you can easily feed.
Worms are sensitive to light, so spread them around and then keep them covered with a ventilated lid or a piece of black plastic with ventilation holes.
Place the bin in a cool, dark location with adequate ventilation. Not too cool or too hot; remember that the ideal temperature between 55°F – 85°F keeps them thriving and hungry.
Feeding the Worms
The worms will settle into the bedding, allowing you to dig a small hole, add the scraps, and lightly cover. Start slowly and change the feeding hole each time you add food to the vermicomposting bin.
All things fruits and veggies are welcome. Used coffee grounds, crushed egg shells, and cornmeal helps the worms use their gizzard (yes, like chickens) to digest easier.
Don’t feed the worms fatty foods, meats or bones; the bio-breakdown is too slow and will start to smell really bad. Non-bio-degradable items are another no-no; worms won’t eat foil, plastic, glass or rubber.
Check on the worms every 5-7 days. Add water if needed to keep the bedding moist (remember, it should be damp like a wrung out kitchen sponge). They prefer to be left alone to do their work; their light sensitivity seeks a dark environment.
You will notice significant changes within the bin in about six to eight weeks. The darker it looks, the more castings they have made. The castings will increase while the organic matter will decrease.
In a couple of months, you will be ready to remove the worms, sort the castings, and change the bedding. Pro Tip: You may notice other bugs, such as; pillbugs, millipedes or sowbugs, don’t worry; they help break down the food waste.
Sorting out the Worms and Castings
Sorting worms from castings couldn’t be easier. Shine a bright light into the bin; the worms will move down into the bedding. Remove the castings and sift through them to return rogue worms to the bin.
Another method is to push the castings to one side of the bin and lure the worms to the other side with fresh bedding and some kitchen scraps. It can take a couple of days but is effective for casting retrieval.
Measuring Castings for Soil
Castings are nutrient-rich, packed with nitrates, magnesium, calcium and potassium. When you add just ¼ cup to potted houseplants, they flourish for months.
Adding a compost tea mixture of 1-2 cups of worm castings to 2 gallons of water sprinkled on your garden soil will enhance the growth of your vegetables and herbs: double the amount and generously water your fruit trees.
You will not likely produce more worm castings than your garden or orchard could benefit from. Spread castings around freely and feed all your fruit trees, garden vegetables, and even houseplants.
Supplies Needed
- Worm Bin – Plastic containers, commercial bins, wood boxes (not cedar or redwood) and styrofoam containers all work well. Pro-Tip: All containers need ventilation holes on the top, bottom and sides.
- Worm Bedding – Shredded newspaper or cardboard without colored dyes is best.
- Compost – Organic compost with added sand (not garden soil) is preferable. Pro-Tip: Don’t use manure; it’s too hot and will kill your worms.
- Water – Enough to soak the bedding, damp but not soggy.
- Red Wiggler Worms – Depending on your food waste, 1 pound of worms (1,000 worms per pound) per 2 pounds of food waste.
- Fine Screen or Mesh Material – Placed over the ventilated lid or black plastic to keep out ants, fruitflies, and gnats.
- 2x2s – To keep the worn bin off the ground helping with airflow.
Vermicomposting Step by Step
- Set up the bin of choice by making ventilation holes on the worm bin’s sides, bottom and top.
- Prepare the worm’s bedding by tearing newspaper or cardboard into 2” or 3” wide strips, and fill the bin at least a third of the way full.
- Spread compost over the paper or cardboard strips, adding a bit of sand for worm digestion; an inch of soil is more than enough.
- Water the paper or cardboard and soil thoroughly.
- Spread your redworms on the wet bedding and let them settle into their new home.
- Make a hole in the soil, add food waste, and lightly cover it with bedding soil.
- Cover the worm bin with a ventilated lid or black plastic with holes for sufficient airflow.
- Place a fine screen or mesh material over the ventilated lid to keep fruit flies and gnats out of the bin.
- Place 2×2’s underneath the bin for air circulation to reduce odors and insects.
- Place the bin someplace (the kitchen corner works well) with a constant temperature of 55°F- 85°F.
- Check on the worms every 5 – 7 days. Add water if needed to keep the bedding moist.
- After 6-8 weeks, the worm castings should be complete. Separate the worms from the castings, fertilize your garden with your vermicompost, and use the worms to start the process all over again.
